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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I’d start a thread here

Been browsing the forum for a while now so thought I should share my build


Inspired by Chris Morejohn and his original marquesa design and a little guidance from the man himself, I have started my build

The skiff will be used for long runs out to super shallow reefs and cruising flats, stalking permit and trevally
We get pretty rough seas here is SE Queensland, so I have added 5’ to height and enlarge the original design by 10%

A little about the boat-
Will be covered in 15mm corelite board
Thermo-Lite for transom and stringers
Using epoxy
Centre console


So far have all my stations drawn up and cut out
With my strong back built over the weekend

I’m hoping to get all the stations up this week, ready for core

Troy C
 

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Very cool! Are you not concerned with weight? Seems you have chosen two pretty heavy cores if I am not mistaken. For your main hull coring you only need a 5lb density foam such as divinycell h80 or equivlent. Just a thought but you might have a different corelite product than I am familiar with also...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I go to Australia every other year. I am scheduled for 2019. When you get it done, I'll come pole you around. Oh yeah, I bring a bottle of whiskey for my mates who take me fishing.
More then welcome to come out with me when it’s done
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
About to start to cut my strips.
Does any one have any recommendations for what size works well?
Was thinking 3 or 4 inches
 

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Looking forward to this.
 

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Use the widest strips you can get away with. I built a round chined boat in the past and had to use 1" wide strips. Looking at your stations ,I think you are able to go wider. I glued mine together with pre- thickened epoxy from a caulking tube, but mine were wood strips and my cloth wasn't that many layers.
 

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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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If I'm not mistaken, Travis Smith used Gorilla glue on his Conchfish 16 to adhere the strips.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-16.51470/page-4



" 2. Anytime you are joining two things, you don’t want a “dry” joint. Using the gorilla glue filled this joint. There is really no pressure on the joints as there is 4 layers of glass over it on each side."
I've read a little bit of discussion on this -- apparently the gorilla glue works well, but not necessarily any better than thickened epoxy, and is more expensive per ounce. It is more convenient, though, so it may be worth it to you.

Really look forward to watching the build! I'm already thinking about doing something similar after my Conchfish build.
 

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I'm probably getting in over my head here as Lord knows Im clueless, but it is my understanding that you want a bit of a gap in the seams as you get a better bond when fairing w/ the epoxy/filler than you would having a number of hard spots, that being said, if one did the cove/bead joint, would that create a number of hard spots? I'm asking for a friend....
 

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I'm probably getting in over my head here as Lord knows Im clueless, but it is my understanding that you want a bit of a gap in the seams as you get a better bond when fairing w/ the epoxy/filler than you would having a number of hard spots, that being said, if one did the cove/bead joint, would that create a number of hard spots? I'm asking for a friend....
The gaps won't hurt anything. On my Conchfish build I will probably use Gorilla Glue to glue my strips to each other. My understanding is the foam core will break before that bond does. Any remaining gaps, I'll fill with an epoxy filler/putty.
 

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The gaps won't hurt anything. On my Conchfish build I will probably use Gorilla Glue to glue my strips to each other. My understanding is the foam core will break before that bond does. Any remaining gaps, I'll fill with an epoxy filler/putty.
Yeah, that is what I was trying to say ie gaps are good / hard spots are not...
 

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Gorilla glue is probably adequate in this situation because it is being encapsulated on both sides with resin and cloth. Other than that, it has no reliable use in boat building.
 
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The hard spots won’t make a difference in this type of build because they aren’t enough to make a difference. Gorilla glue/ bonding putty either is fine. I like the Gorilla glue method myself. It clamps good, fairs easy, and it is very convenient!
 

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Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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The hard spots won’t make a difference in this type of build because they aren’t enough to make a difference. Gorilla glue/ bonding putty either is fine. I like the Gorilla glue method myself. It clamps good, fairs easy, and it is very convenient!
I wouldn't be as worried about hard spots as I would voids, or areas where the foam might touch but there's no epoxy between the two pieces. I would think to accomplish that, you'd need to fill the cove before setting the bead in it, but that's just a guess (I have no experience with that at all). I'd rather go with square cut planks and leave a slight gap to make sure I get contact with the epoxy along the entire joint.
 
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