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Like sewing machine oil , Makes you wonder how well stuff is built when it takes a straight 30 weight. At some point you would think you would lose the ability to dissipate heat , 3n1 by the drum Cabinet man ,no oil man , I would stick to factory recommended weight.
 

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I played around with oil weights a while back trying to get more milage out of my old jeep Cherokee. Going from 10w40 down to 5w20 didn't even make a .25mpg difference, averaged over a few tanks. It also made the motor run with more vibration, so I changed back. It wasn't worth the whole dollar I would save per fill up.
 

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^^^ try a tank full of no E premium. Worth close to 40% on Toyota fj , over reg grade w/E. Prolly cost 25 % more With my public school math , that’s a15% gain ? FJ manual calls for premium Got close to 19 mpg w no e premium , less than 16 mpg w E reg. I’m a believer in no E for all my stuff. This damn ethanol has been a costly education for me.
 

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I've played with none E/rec fuel before in the Cherokee and my outboard a few times. To me there was not a significant improvement to justify the cost and hassle, but both of them are recommended 87 octane, not premium like your fj.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m going to link a site that talks about 0w-20 being ran in motorcycles along with the video they did along with it. They ran a suxuki 1000 on a dyno with break in oil then switched to 0w-20 and you can see the proof is in the pudding.

Think about it like this. When your engine heats up that oil becomes thicker making the engine having to “trudge” through that 40w its like a syrup. Drop it down to the 20w is half the thickness at its temperature. So it would be like it moving through water. The less resistance means less heat being produced by the engine. Resulting in a more efficient motor. Just like when you have a big K&N your ramming all that air into the block to cool the engine. Since we are dealing with a water cooles engine thats out of the picture. So one of the only options is reducing friction in the block.

Just a thought. Im going to invest in it next time I do my oil and will come back with results.

I dont want to sound like a crazy consiperacy guy but. Most engines are designed around a thick oil and we all believe switching away from the “recommended” thing is gunna automatically fuck shit up. Most of us most liekly buy the Suzuki, Yamaha, or Merc brand oils theyre thick 40s. Its going to gum up eventually over time resulting in problems meaning more money for them in the long run. Food for thought.


Website:
https://brocksperformance.com/0w-20-alisyn-synthetic-oil-quart/

Customers report reduced operating temperatures up to 45°F when compared to conventional lubricants and up to 30°F compared to other synthetic motor oils. These performance characteristics result in operating efficiency increases of up to 15%.




Video:
 

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What does an engine manufacturer gain by not recommending the proper weight oil? If I toast the motor while in warranty they eat that cost, if it's not as or more efficient than their competitors how does that benefit them? If I run a 0-20W and my motor pops while under warranty im sure it's going to cost me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What does an engine manufacturer gain by not recommending the proper weight oil? If I toast the motor while in warranty they eat that cost, if it's not as or more efficient than their competitors how does that benefit them? If I run a 0-20W and my motor pops while under warranty im sure it's going to cost me.
Valid point.
Drain the 0w-20 and put the recommended in lol.

But like i said its just a thought.
 

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You are comparing apples to oranges in my mind. Bike motors are built for performance and high rpms, outboards especially smaller ones, are built more for consistency and reliability and red line at lower rpms. I wouldn't doubt 0w20 in a bike would pick up some performance because of the tight tolerance the motors are already built to.

I'm not sitting through the whole video, but it seemed like they just checked if it would work. To me that means nothing unless they show virtually no damage after the bike has another 10k miles/one year wear on it. Even so, none of my bikes ever made it past 30k miles without needing motor work.

My wife's last 3 cars were speced at 0w20 synthetic, and they warn deviation could effect fuel milage. It's becoming pretty common, but these are light duty vehicles.
 
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