Thank you very much.I tried my boat with the original SS motor I had. It didn't work. That was without the JP or cav plate. I think it would work if I mounted the JP lower, but I switched to a long shaft motor and never tried it. The cav plate is key for my setup. Hopefully, I think I could come up a couple more inches but the JP is maxed out.
I did all the rigging myself. It is amazing that none of the GA dealers knew anything about setting a tunnel up. Most of my advice came from smack. He's a tunnel guru. Very happy with it. I run rivers a lot and they can get extremely shallow. On plane it will run in 8 inches. Maybe less. That's the conservative guess.
I found a stainless rod holder and made that grab bar from pvc pipe. It just slides in. Not the fanciest, but it works great and was very cost effective! I’ll post some pictures for you tomorrow so you can get a better look!What is your grab bar setup? I'm trying to figure out how to add one.
Here’s how the setup looks up close. I usually stand on the back deck when I’m driving, so this was the most ideal place to put it.What is your grab bar setup? I'm trying to figure out how to add one.
Call Mitchell marine in Lagrange. I bought my AC 1546 tunnel from there late June. They had a bunch.So i am in a similar place as the author of the thread, have a 25hp looking for a tunnel jon...I found that Alumacraft no longer makes the 15 or 16 MVT as of 2019. There are a few to be found in the used market but they seem to go quick. Found a 15x44 tunnel hull with a similar weight online from Boats Direct(3,200 + 525$ for tunnel no tax), cant vouch for them but they are made by Weld-Craft out of Arkansas. 8 week build time and you pick it up in Georgia. Been floating the idea of pulling the trigger on one of these.
Jonathan, how long is your tunnel on the SeaArk from stern to the start of the tunnel and is it 4" tall or 6" tall at the stern.I have a SeaArk 1652 Tunnel Hull with a 30 Suzuki, and I haven’t had any issues as far as not having enough power. I don’t have a speedometer, but by my self it gets up and runs pretty quick. Even with another person fishing with me I have no complaints. The boat is rated for a 50 though. As for the pros & cons: you can run pretty skinny and generally don’t have to worry about hitting anything (SeaArk has a lifetime warranty, so there’s some peace of mind). Cons being that any aluminum boat will ride rougher than fiberglass. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I love it. Hope this helps!
Hope this helps.Jonathan, how long is your tunnel on the SeaArk from stern to the start of the tunnel and is it 4" tall or 6" tall at the stern.
I would say a brand new 1652 mvt with a 40 hp tiller would be in the $10k to $12k range if you got everything new from a dealer. I figure around $5000 for the boat, $4500 for the motor, and $1500 for a trailer.Just started reading this thread, in the market for a new skiff, been considering BT mosquito and Cayo 173 glass hulls. After more research, considering aluminum hull , areas i fish are shallow and full of oyster. Going to check out Sabine Skiffs during a trip to Texas next week, but also considering SeaArk 1652 and 1860. Need to find a dealer here near Gainesville. Any idea what a basic setup with a tiller would cost on the Seaark 1652 or 1860?