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Discussion Starter #1
What say ye for an aluminum boat for saltwater use (not pontoons)? Thinking of 16'-19' and as wide as I can get.
  1. Show me your saltwater aluminum rig?
  2. Type or rig/mfg?
  3. What mfg to stay away from?
  4. Also would like a tunnel for the flats and islands, but some say my 25 2Stroke won't push it/not enough power running a tunnel.
  5. Would like sponsons on the stern IF that would help with #4 (might get them anyway if I can't run a tunnel).
  6. Does having a tunnel provide suction and thus the comment on #4?
  7. Has anyone vented their tunnel to break the suction (if that happens) to alleviate a power problem?
Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are a ton of threads on here on the subject, some very recent. Search function will pull them up.
Yes, aluminum is fine in salt. I’d look at a 40-50 for a 16’ and 50-70 for an 18.
Ok, totally forgot about search.
Sorry.
 

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Xpress or SeaArk will get you in what you're looking for. But you will need to make compromises with that tunnel (no major big water in rough conditions, speed, turning, etc...)

I'd look at the Xpress XP18CC w/ Tunnel. 86" wide, 60" wide at the bottom. Slap a 70hp on there and have a good time.

It really depends on if you want a fully fitted boat or a knock-down drag-out smash-and-dash boomstick kinda boat... Fully fitted? Xpress. Just a hardcore tank? SeaArk.

If you're looking for just a tiller jon boat, I'd go with Sea Ark.
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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Tunnels don’t cause any of those issues, people just read that and regurgitate bad information. In most cases it’s because the outboard is not mounted correctly, they run a tunnel with no jackplate, the prop is wrong and/or the operator doesn’t know how to run one correctly.
Yes I have owned a tunnel hull aluminum boat and my current boat has a tunnel. Most of the boats I run down here have tunnels.
 

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I just bought an Excel stalker 1960 center console. I bought the hull and put my Yamaha F90 SHO on the back of it. It has a kick back plate plus an Atlas micro jacker. I bought it for duck hunting and fishing LA in the winter. Runs WOT 40 to 41 with full tank and me and another dude and runs stupid shallow. Floats shallow too. It's not the best riding boat since it's very flat bottom and it will slide in turns at a higher speed but that's ok for how I'm going to use it in LA. I think it's one of there more entry level priced hulls but I like the simple layout of it.

I'm running a 24v Xi5 on it since I already had that troller on my mav so I just swap them back and forth but a 12v would tug it around just fine. Most AL boats are fairly light so I wouldn't think you would need a 24v troller.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Xpress or SeaArk will get you in what you're looking for. But you will need to make compromises with that tunnel (no major big water in rough conditions, speed, turning, etc...)

I'd look at the Xpress XP18CC w/ Tunnel. 86" wide, 60" wide at the bottom. Slap a 70hp on there and have a good time.

It really depends on if you want a fully fitted boat or a knock-down drag-out smash-and-dash boomstick kinda boat... Fully fitted? Xpress. Just a hardcore tank? SeaArk.

If you're looking for just a tiller jon boat, I'd go with Sea Ark.
I'm looking for a tank tunnel hull (LOL).
I did see a SeaArk that was pretty sweet 1652 or the 17' (cant remember right now) and it had flotation pods on the back (factory option) which I want add on any boat for future upgrades in the stern.
Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tunnels don’t cause any of those issues, people just read that and regurgitate bad information. In most cases it’s because the outboard is not mounted correctly, they run a tunnel with no jackplate, the prop is wrong and/or the operator doesn’t know how to run one correctly.
Yes I have owned a tunnel hull aluminum boat and my current boat has a tunnel. Most of the boats I run down here have tunnels.
That is what I couldn't figure out/their comments on the T-Hull.
A few were saying they were having a hard time with figuring out the prop pitch and motor set up. Takes a long time to DIAL in they say with T-Hulls.
Thanks, I would really like a T-Hull here on the West Coast/Fl
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I just bought an Excel stalker 1960 center console. I bought the hull and put my Yamaha F90 SHO on the back of it. It has a kick back plate plus an Atlas micro jacker. I bought it for duck hunting and fishing LA in the winter. Runs WOT 40 to 41 with full tank and me and another dude and runs stupid shallow. Floats shallow too. It's not the best riding boat since it's very flat bottom and it will slide in turns at a higher speed but that's ok for how I'm going to use it in LA. I think it's one of there more entry level priced hulls but I like the simple layout of it.

I'm running a 24v Xi5 on it since I already had that troller on my mav so I just swap them back and forth but a 12v would tug it around just fine. Most AL boats are fairly light so I wouldn't think you would need a 24v troller.
Ok Thank you, I'll take a look at that MFG of boats.

https://excelboats.com/viperf4.html
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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That is what I couldn't figure out/their comments on the T-Hull.
A few were saying they were having a hard time with figuring out the prop pitch and motor set up. Takes a long time to DIAL in they say with T-Hulls.
Thanks, I would really like a T-Hull here on the West Coast/Fl
I recommend a good prop shop, they should be able to prop it correctly in two tries and maybe only a minor tweak. Tunnels are misunderstood.
 

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Tunnels don’t cause any of those issues, people just read that and regurgitate bad information.
I'm speaking comparatively from real world experience between a 16' SeaArk Tunnel and my Xpress non-tunnel. Not every tunnel hull is the same; always best to wet-test in your environment whenever possible.

Perfect world? I could James Bond the hell out of my boat and flip a switch and the stern pops up creating a tunnel for me and then I can flip a switch and drop it back down for the full mod-V :D:D
 

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Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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I'm speaking comparatively from real world experience between a 16' SeaArk Tunnel and my Xpress non-tunnel. Not every tunnel hull is the same; always best to wet-test in your environment whenever possible.

Perfect world? I could James Bond the hell out of my boat and flip a switch and the stern pops up creating a tunnel for me and then I can flip a switch and drop it back down for the full mod-V :D:D
Understood! There are some crazy tournament guys that fabbed some tunnels that way. The top of the tunnel moves up and down like a trim tab...prettt interesting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm speaking comparatively from real world experience between a 16' SeaArk Tunnel and my Xpress non-tunnel. Not every tunnel hull is the same; always best to wet-test in your environment whenever possible.

Perfect world? I could James Bond the hell out of my boat and flip a switch and the stern pops up creating a tunnel for me and then I can flip a switch and drop it back down for the full mod-V :D:D
More info on the SArk Tunnel.
Some say I need a lot of HP for the tunnel and my 25 2Stroke mentioned won't work/ not enough HP.
I would be interested in your Pro's/Con's of the SArk Tunnel boat if you have time.
I don't see many with this information.
Thanks,
 

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I've got an alumacraft 1546 tunnel with a 25hp. Runs about 24 mph and very shallow. I added a JP and cav plate. Thanks to at @Smackdaddy53 for advice on setup. Alumacraft is definitely not the same quality as sea ark but is priced accordingly. I am happy with the quality so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've got an alumacraft 1546 tunnel with a 25hp. Runs about 24 mph and very shallow. I added a JP and cav plate. Thanks to at @Smackdaddy53 for advice on setup. Alumacraft is definitely not the same quality as sea ark but is priced accordingly. I am happy with the quality so far.
Nice. Thanks.
 

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More info on the SArk Tunnel.
Some say I need a lot of HP for the tunnel and my 25 2Stroke mentioned won't work/ not enough HP.
I would be interested in your Pro's/Con's of the SArk Tunnel boat if you have time.
I don't see many with this information.
Thanks,
I have a SeaArk 1652 Tunnel Hull with a 30 Suzuki, and I haven’t had any issues as far as not having enough power. I don’t have a speedometer, but by my self it gets up and runs pretty quick. Even with another person fishing with me I have no complaints. The boat is rated for a 50 though. As for the pros & cons: you can run pretty skinny and generally don’t have to worry about hitting anything (SeaArk has a lifetime warranty, so there’s some peace of mind). Cons being that any aluminum boat will ride rougher than fiberglass. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I love it. Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have a SeaArk 1652 Tunnel Hull with a 30 Suzuki, and I haven’t had any issues as far as not having enough power. I don’t have a speedometer, but by my self it gets up and runs pretty quick. Even with another person fishing with me I have no complaints. The boat is rated for a 50 though. As for the pros & cons: you can run pretty skinny and generally don’t have to worry about hitting anything (SeaArk has a lifetime warranty, so there’s some peace of mind). Cons being that any aluminum boat will ride rougher than fiberglass. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I love it. Hope this helps!
Excellent information!!
Can you post some pics and of the stern?
Looking to see the cab plate to bottom of the boat to get an idea on how far it would need to be raised.
Thank you again and dispelling rumors, now I feel comfortable in getting T-Hall cause I want to skinny.
 

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Excellent information!!
Can you post some pics and of the stern?
Looking to see the cab plate to bottom of the boat to get an idea on how far it would need to be raised.
Thank you again and dispelling rumors, now I feel comfortable in getting T-Hall cause I want to skinny.
Here are some pics of how the motor sits trimmed all the way down. With a jack plate and the right prop, you can get a lot of performance out of these boats in regard to running in shallow water!
 

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