Adding a bilge pump

Discussion in 'Power it up with Electronics' started by tfl813, Jul 14, 2012.

  1. tfl813

    tfl813 I Love microskiff.com!

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    I currently run a trolling motor off of a deep cycle battery, the trolling motor is the only thing on the battery.  To install my bilge pump could I just attach the + and - connections of the bilge pump to the battery terminals, along with the trolling motor connections that are already on there? 

    So basically can I have two things attached to the same battery without having everything explode?

    Electronics clearly is not my specialty, neither is anything else now that I think about it  ;D 

       
     
  2. tntwill

    tntwill Hooking Lips is my life

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    just use a fuse between the pump and the bat.
     

  3. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    If you hook the brown wire from the bilge pump (+) to the positive of the battery and the black wire of the bilge pump (-) to the negative battery post, the pump will always be on, and melt.
    You have to put a switch on it, beit a float switch or a toggle switch.
    I never fuse my bilge pumps btw.
     
  4. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    one of the best pumps to use,for a small boat is the whale pump - i've used quite a few of these - never a problem.the design allows alot of mounting options - these can be wired for strictly automatic operation,and manual operation - these require no switches,it's an elctronic sensor.


    side note:

    NEVER install ANY electrical accesory without fusing it !

    [​IMG]
     
  5. tfl813

    tfl813 I Love microskiff.com!

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    Thanks for the input, I did a little research and found a kit made by Attwood.  It includes a pump, switch, fuse, port, extra wires, and hose.  I went ahead and bought it.  I should have it hooked up as soon as I get my boat back (I'm having it switched to a new trailer).  I'll be sure to post up the pics.    

    Here it is: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tsunami-500-Bilge-Pump-Installation-Kit/11071162
     
  6. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    there's a reason that kit is so cheap : that in line fuse,it's gonna last about a week,before it corrodes to nothing...that hose,it's the worst,very prone to breaking and cracking from the sun.that switch is also low quality,and it's never a good idea to use a nylon thru hull - the sun will cause these to crack and break as well...
    attwood products are known for being low quality...

    smart move is to use a smooth wall,hose - "sanitation" hose is an excellent choice for discharge hose.be sure and use a waterproof inline fuse,along with heat shrink,marine grade connectors and marine grade wiring - there's a huge difference between automotive wire and marine grade...
    buy a quality pump,granted,the cost may be initially more,however,after the components in that kit fail,how much did you really save ?
     
  7. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    Im going to have to politely disagree on that one.
    Everything but the bilge pump should be should be fused
    ESPECIALLY if the boat stays in the water at a dock.
    For example
    Lets just say your boat was tied up at the dock for your week long vacation in the keys.
    Your boat is non-self bailing.
    You and your buddies decide to leave the islamorada house for the 1hour or more drive to key west and get trashed for the night.
    While your gone, a huge rainstorm hits islamorada and dumps rain into the boat.
    If your bilge pump is fused with the recommended 7.5 amp fuse (i believe), it doesnt take much to pop it, and your bilge system stops, resulting in a possibly sunken boat. (worst case).
    Now, if the bilge pump is not fused, it will keep running till it either drains the boat, or cant keep up , gets a short (small chance), and melts.( If its underwater its not gonna catch fire) at least it went down trying.. Not cuz a 20cent fuse failed.
    My opinion and many many others.
     
  8. fsae99

    fsae99 I Love microskiff.com!

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    I go back and forth on the fuse issue for the BP. Every fiber of my Industrial electronics education says fuse it. Every fiber of my boating knowledge says most fires on small boats are electrical. Every fiber of my human conditions says I want it to run no matter what, until it blows if needed.

    I currently run a fuse twice the recommended size and wire twice the recommended size from the end of the factory wiring on pump to battery. The connection to the factory wires is above board. Hopefully this would keep any burning wire out of the console.

    Yes it is fine to have BP and TM on the same battery, nothing will explode. Some sort of switch does need to be installed. If you have no BP now then the cheap one is better than none.
     
  9. Dillusion

    Dillusion devilray snob

    Mine is setup two ways....non-fused and fused. And with my gheenoe NMZ I need it to always work ;D

    My automatic bilge pump switch is wired directly to the battery, and the manual bilge switch is wired with a fuse.
     
  10. tfl813

    tfl813 I Love microskiff.com!

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    I'm gonna use it then if something breaks, I'll just replace it.  I'm gonna run the wires all through a large hose to protect them from the sun and to make it neat.  I'm with you on the heat shrink and connectors, though. Keep in mind that this is for a jon boat. 
     
  11. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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  12. DuckNut

    DuckNut Brandon, FL

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    Why would someone hook something electrical up without a "weak link" designed to fail before causing a catastrophy?

    Doubling the fuse - wouldn't that be like using a 10D common nail as the fuse - ensuring that the wires overload and potentially catch fire? Hoping they melt and break in half before catching fire is just not a good idea.

    If you wire something improperly and it catches fire and burns the place down - your insurance company may tell you to pack sand as you were given instructions how to properly wire the item and you and only you made the concious decision to ignore the instructions and safety warnings.

    I am not an electrical engineer - but I did stay in a Hilton last night.
     
  13. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    you can bet on that !!
    also,if a shop,as in buisness, wired it like that,they're on the hook...
     
  14. tntwill

    tntwill Hooking Lips is my life

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    WELL I HOPE YOU HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER [smiley=shithappens.gif] IMO
     
  15. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    Wow youve never seen debis get stuck in the pump and get past the sad excuse for a screen?
    Look, i have no problem taking your advice for fiberglass, but thats it..
    In the end whats the difference? A sunk boat, or a half burnt sunk boat?
    Either way its junk :p
     
  16. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    And yes im aware of abyc and nmma standards
    Read carefully
     
  17. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    never seen a stuck pump - sorry,in just about 20yrs,never seen it...
    have i seen pumps go bad ? yup
    have i seen the screen clog ? yup
    seen pumps melted,rule automatic pumps - fuse never blew - correct amperage fuse too...


    using cheap,low quality pumps,hosing,and wiring,causes problem,using good quality stuff avoids these problems...

    suggesting not to fuse a piece of electrical equipment is pretty bad,pretty stupid too...

    i'm thinkin' you should take my electrical advice too - your's isn't very good...
     
  18. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    this is what you typed: "For example
    Lets just say your boat was tied up at the dock for your week long vacation in the keys.
    Your boat is non-self bailing.
    You and your buddies decide to leave the islamorada house for the 1hour or more drive to key west and get trashed for the night.
    While your gone, a huge rainstorm hits islamorada and dumps rain into the boat.
    If your bilge pump is fused with the recommended 7.5 amp fuse (i believe), it doesnt take much to pop it, and your bilge system stops, resulting in a possibly sunken boat. (worst case).
    Now, if the bilge pump is not fused, it will keep running till it either drains the boat, or cant keep up , gets a short (small chance), and melts.( If its underwater its not gonna catch fire) at least it went down trying.. Not cuz a 20cent fuse failed.
    My opinion and many many others."


    read that carefully... ;)
     
  19. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    You win, my knowledge or lack theirof pales in comparison.
    When my boat burns to the waterline one day cuz i used that cheap crap Anchor wire , heat shrink, and rule pumps. You can say i told you so.
    I'll be waiting
     
  20. jms

    jms don't let common sense get in your way

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    no need to be a douche,i certainly didn't insult you...

    unfortunatley,people go to web sites like this,for advice,and information,when an inexperienced individual reads poor information,it creates problems - people tend to believe what they read to be true and accurate,and make their own interpretation of it.some one could read what you typed,and "morph it" from there into,nothing electrical requires fusing.it's your boat,you can do whatever you wish with it,but,typing poor information,such as not fusing a bilge pump is irresponsible,than compoundng on it by typing the pump's underwater,as to justify if the pump burns up,it won't catch fire is even worse - someone "in the buisness",i'm assuming you're an outboard tech,yes ?,should know better than that...
    no one knows everything,i certainly don't profess to know everything,you clearly don't know everything either - there's certain "standards" and "codes" specified for different things,it's best to adhere to those codes - it keeps you out of trouble...

    "it's best to be thought the fool,than to open your mouth ad prove it" - wise words my friend,wise words...
     
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