about to get a 4hp johnson 2 stroke with weedless foot...

I'm guessing this a 80's motor?  Assuming so, let's just say that motor was not one of OMC's best efforts.

It rode in on coattails what IMHO was on of OMC's cornerstone products, the weedless twin cylinder 3.  We had one when I was a kid and it was the "smoothest, most reliable" outboard you could ever want.  It will run on one cylinder since it had independent coils.  When running correctly, you can almost count the revolutions of the prop.  The angled foot and swept back prop made it virtually weedless but not 100%.  The really nice part about the design of that foot was with the angle, the skeg would skid over submerged logs eliminating constant sheared pins.  Make no mistake, you still need a hand full of OEM sheer pins (NOT NAILS :) in your tackle box.

If you want one for that kind of use, IMHO, you should be looking for a 50's / 60's vintage with the "old school" rounded metal cowl.  They are much better motors.

FWIW, I have two vintage "weedless 3's".  One Evinrude and one Johnson, both with folding foot and the original suit cases.  Mine are mid 60's versions and have the rare fuel pump options allowing you to pull fuel from a remote tank as well as from the built in tank

 

Hi Blake,

I have my Dad's 1971 Evinrude 4 HP weedless and also a 1972 Johnson 4 HP Weedless engine that I bought new.

These were both bought new and have been used every duck season since purchased. I traded a 62 weedless 3 HP in on my 72. They have not needed any major repairs. I have 2 new ignition sets and impellers in my shop and plan to keep them running as long as possible. The parts for these vintage engines run the gamut as far as cost is concerned. One site offers the impellers for over $100 each, but mine were bought for less than $30 for both with shipping included. If tipped out away from the boat as far as they can go they will plane a 12' Jon if 42' wide. The three blade prop offers a lot more thrust than the 2 blade which I once tried. Your engine should have a 3 gallon remote tank. I would strongly suggest changing every bit of fuel line including that which is under the cowl. Try and find new gaskets for the fuel strainer at the fuel pump as well.

Good luck with your duck hunting and best regards,
Frank_S

 

An after thought, if you are having a problem with sheer pins, you can use brass/bronze welding rod used for brazing as sheer pins. Respect the size as close as Possible and cut with bolt cutters or hack saw to exact length.

Best,
Frank_S

 

I see Frank beat me to my clarification.  I missed an era, 70's / early 80's. Like Frank states, those are fine and it's the one's like this that were not up to the same standards IMHO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtmrB2EDOP8

I think Frank will agree the one in the video sounds nothing like the earlier models.

I dug up another video that will give you an idea of difference in sound.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbihbcvnL5s&feature=related

 

That sounds like a good deal Blake. Just don't forget about the ethanol added fuels. I try to find ethanol free gas, but since I can't be sure it is ethanol free, I change the fuel delivery system as much as I could to make alcohol resistant.

Frank_S