Here is what happened....I got this motor through a trade deal with a guy and installed it on my 1986 16' tri-hull custom craft fish and ski. Needed a new throttle cable and installed it. Got it running and took it to the lake. Shifted in reverse and alot of clunking and popping. I cut the motor off and the shift lever had "over shifted". Does that make sense? Let me explain further...when it goes in forward it is towards the front of the boat and then in neutral it is almost vertical. Then in reverse it moves toward the rear and then the shift linkage between the bellcrank and linkage between the shift lever go completely straight and then it moved slightly passed straight and slightly down. Now I know that sounds insane but that is what happened. When I remove the linkage it seems to work fine when I move it by hand, but it still seems to travel too far downward in reverse. The clutch dog engages the reverse gear and when turning the prop it will move the powerhead, but under power it will most likely slip. I am prepared to replace the reverse gear, clutch dog, pin and retaining spring. What I need help is the adjustment on the shifting. What actually stops the movement of the shift lever? When it engages the gear or is there something else in the foot or on the motor under the powerhead that will limit the travel of the shift lever?
Bottom of shift rod is threaded for adjustment, unlikely that changed. http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/32973.cfm As a guess I'd say the rear of the shift cable needs to be adjusted. There is a proper installation-adjustment procedure to be followed to ensure function.
Where can I find that procedure? I have looked everywhere, other forums, searched the net, and I have a seloc manual and there is nothing specific that says how to adjust that shifting. I have two places to make and adjustment. On the shift linkage between the lever on the side of th emotor and the shift rod that is attached to the bell crank and the gear shift cable. Where is the best place to make these adjustments?
Does this sound correct?? I found this on another sight.... Disconnect the shift cable at the outboard, usually just a clip. Unscrew the nut that connects the lower shift rod to the mid section until they are not connected and continue until the nut is flush with the rod. Now put the lower in neutral by moving the lower shift rod until you feel the prop is in neutral. Now put the midsection in neutral by moving the linkage in the cowling until you find the neutral detent. It should have three postions, forward, neutral, and reverse. Neutral is the center and you should feel it kinda of click in and stay there. Once your lower is in neutral and your midsection linkage is in neutral then thread the nut back to connect the two rods. Center the nut so that it has an equal amount of threads of each rod and tighten the lock nut. Now your outboard linkage is set, now you have to connect your shift cable. First make sure your control box is in neutral and then go back and adjust your cable at the motor until the mounting point and the end hole lines up with your linkage and reinstall clip. Now verify your shifting by putting the control box through all the shift positions and verifing it at the prop. Sounds complicated but is really an easy setup.
That's the portion I remember, as the shift rod to the lower unit never shifted from working position on my Evinrudes.
lol i was gonna say that but figured it would b easier for me to wait for someone else to type it lol
This is the reason that when asked, I always recommend an OEM shop manual. The OEM manuals have model specific pictures and complete instructions for each installation and adjustment.
Okay here is a diagram of the parts. Based on what I found I assumed that I disconnect the shift linkage cable from the remote control box and then disconnect part #91 and "feel" for neutral on the lever, part #25. But, part #25 doesn't have a detent. It moves freely/smoothly. So now I am stuck. In the diagram part #91, shift lever to bell carnk, is adjustable with the threaded yoke on the end. So does anyone know if that should be at a set distance? The only deten you feel is the bell crank where it is shifthing the gears in the foot. Any and all help is appreciated!!
On my old binnacles, neutral position was at half the total travel arc of the shift arm. The midpoint of swing. So that is where I assume yours should be. Knowing that sets the limits of the binnacle end of the cable so then you adjust the rear of the cable to fit the connection to the shift rod to the lower unit, when the lower unit is in neutral.
I figured that I might as well disassemble the foot becuase I at least need to check the clutch dog and reverse since it was making that terrible noise, then I could worry about adjusting the shift linkage later. Well lemme tell ya......this darn bearing assembly carrier is hanging onto that foot like a pubic hair in a boloney sammich!! I removed the prop and the 4-5/16" bolts last night, put some aerokroil on her and then put the gear puller on there rigged with two pieces of 5/16" threaded rod (like the manual says you can do0. Well nothing changed between last night and this morning. The kroil hasn't loosened it up a bit. Go to tightening down on the gear puller (while adding heat) and stripped out on of the holes where the threaded rod was inserted. No big deal I guess cause thats all those holes are for. Now I got a BIGGER gear puller on it and I added more kroil and I am going to let it sit all day and tonight and see what happens in the morning. I may not be adding enough heat with my Bernzomatic torch, but that's all I got unless I go to the father-in-laws fab shop. Then I can get the BIG STUF!! A few more beers last night and I would have probably pulled out the BFH and really messed something up!! If any of you marine mechanics out there can give me anymore guidance I will listen for sure!!!
Without an OEM shop manual to work from I wouldn't even attempt to work on a lower unit. Because I'd fix it so no one else could! :-[
Got the bearing carrier out!! I am not a proponent of cheater bars but thats what I had to use to turn the drive bolt on the gear puller. Most times when you use a cheater bar you tear stuff up!! Next is to find a cheap pair of snap ring pliers that are long enough to reach the rings!! Mine are just too short!!
I found that cheap set of snap ring pliers. Yep...you get what you pay for. Ran down toe Harbor freight and got a set, internal and external pliers, and 6 sets of tips. We I could squeeze the ring tight enough, but when went to pull it out the ring would slip off of the pliers. Guess I will have to see what we got at work tomorrow!!
