[Battfisher]

This is the bolt that attaches the fuel connector to the outboard (a 9.9 Mariner/Mercury 2s). Fuel connector leaks and I have a replacement - but the threads in the connector for the bolt circled in red are completely stripped. Bolt has resistance when I turn it, but it doesn’t back out at all. I tried grabbing the head with vice grips and turning it, but no movement. I used a screwdriver to put downward pressure on the body of the connector, but bolt threads still won’t catch. I’m hesitant to grind the head off for sparking reasons and I also don’t know what I’d do with the remaining shank.

Any suggestions/hints would be greatly appreciated. I’m in Winter Garden/Orlando area.

 

[DuckNut]

Sounds like there might be a nut on the underside?

Can you tap a putty knife under the head?

 

[Battfisher]

Sounds like there might be a nut on the underside?

Can you tap a putty knife under the head?

I’ll try the putty knife - I tried to tap a screw driver under it and couldn’t get it there. Doesn’t look like there’s any place for a nut

 

[jmrodandgun]

I've never seen one not back out but this is what one looks like off of the motor incase you're wondering what it will look like if you cut the bolt head off.

 

[Battfisher]

Yep - I already have the replacement in hand. I’m guessing the brass nut insert on top has broken loose, but I can’t see it with the existing connector in place. If I cut the bolt head off it will leave the shaft of the bolt in the hole and I won’t be able to slide the old connector out.

 

[jmrodandgun]

If I cut the bolt head off it will leave the shaft of the bolt in the hole and I won’t be able to slide the old connector out.

Without knowing the year/make of your specific 9.9 I can't say for sure but the one I have will fall out from the bottom if you cut the bolt head off. Yours looks similar.

 

[DuckNut]

Put a drill bit thing with a socket head on in a drill and turn it. Then use the screwdriver on the top of the plastic piece. Eventually the plastic will wear away so the piece will come off. Then you can figure out how to deal with the bolt.

 

[Battfisher]

It’s a 1996 Mariner/Mercury, 9.9 2s.

@DuckNut - not quite following. I have sockets for my drill and pretty sure I have that size. But when I turn the bolt head, the bolt just turns in place. I don’t know what plastic your talking about turning, since nothing turns when I turn the bolt.

 

[Battfisher]

I guess I’ll have to take it to the Merc shop in downtown Orlando (Hagood Marine). Owner is a nice guy (Mike Hagood) but has a different view about society than most people.

 

[Guest]

What @DuckNut is saying, it put a socket adaptor in a drill, put the socket on the bolt and get that puppy spinning. It will heat up the plastic enough to pry off the brass insert. Then you can grab the insert with pliers or vise grips and back the bolt out.

 

[Battfisher]

What @DuckNut is saying, it put a socket adaptor in a drill, put the socket on the bolt and get that puppy spinning. It will heat up the plastic enough to pry off the brass insert. Then you can grab the insert with pliers or vise grips and back the bolt out.

Makes sense! Thanks!

 

[DuckNut]

What @DuckNut is saying, it put a socket adaptor in a drill, put the socket on the bolt and get that puppy spinning. It will heat up the plastic enough to pry off the brass insert. Then you can grab the insert with pliers or vise grips and back the bolt out.

Good thing you are a certified backyard ******* marine mechanic

 

[Guest]

Good thing you are a certified backyard ******* marine mechanic

I would have disconnected the fuel line and hit it hard with the heat gun lol!

 

[Guest]

 

[Guest]

Good thing you are a “certifiable” backyard ******* marine mechanic

FIFY!

 

[Battfisher]

Worked like a charm - mostly. Got the body of the connector down off of the collar - but there are a couple of cables coming out of the tiller handle that prevent the body from dropping all the way off of the bolt. The jaws on my fishing pliers aren’t long enough to get in there and get a good enough grip to hold the brass sleeve tight enough to back the bolt out.

@Boatbrains will say that all I need to do is simply disassemble the tiller arm, thread the cables out of the way, remove the connector body, and possibly check the timing and do a quick valve job. But I’ll just pick up a pair of longer jawed needle nose pliers at Lowe’s tomorrow and make short work of it.

Thanks for the help. This site is awesome.

 

[Guest]

Fine, have it your way. But we could have made it a 15 while we had it tore down!