[TomFL]

pulled the lower end off the little 'rude to do the pump and the driveshaft is stuck in the block....

Anybody got any handy tips on getting it outta there, or is it a pretty much lost cause? The motor is otherwise in great shape with no outward signs of corrosion, etc. but I know it's always possible that sucker is about welded in there.

-T

 

[Brett]

You got the lower unit off, but the driveshaft stayed in the crankshaft spline?

 

[TomFL]

You got the lower unit off, but the driveshaft stayed in the crankshaft spline?

Yessiree

Have a feeling about this one.....

 

[Brett]

I've never seen that one before.
Usually between the moly-lube and the o-ring
the top end of the shaft stays well lubed.
The o-ring can make it a bit hard to remove sometimes.
Installation of the new o-ring has caused me grief a couple times.


Interesting, there's a flat on the shaft that fits a sleeve and retaining ring
in the exhaust housing that holds the shaft up in the block.
part numbers 69 and 70 I think. Never seen that before.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/brp_parts/diagrams/26029.cfm

Looks like you have to remove the exhaust housing to drop the shaft.

 

[TomFL]

I don't think I should need to drop the housing after looking at this further.

In the little pamphlet that came with the water pump kit, it just tells you to unscrew the 3 bolts holding the gearcase on and voila, everything comes apart as normal.

Pretty straight forward.

Unless the shaft is stuck I guess

-T

 

[B.Lee]

Did the lower unit come off and leave the driveshaft there? If so, just leave it and reinstall the lower unit with the new pump installed.

 

[TomFL]

Did the lower unit come off and leave the driveshaft there?  If so, just leave it and reinstall the lower unit with the new pump installed.

That ain't gonna work as the keyway has to sit in place on the flat sopt in the driveshaft, so once it's installed up to that flat spot there's no room to get up in there and tighten the bolts from the top once you get it

 

[Frank_Sebastian]

Hi Tom,

Here is how I free the drive shaft from the end of the crank. Buy four of the lower unit bolts that are an inch longer than the ones holding the lower unit on. (these need only be the same diameter and thread pitch) Replace the originals being careful to allow an equal space on the four bolts so there is about an inch gap on all four. Run the motor on a hose and as it warms up the unit will drop. Make sure the shift rod is disconnected and not fouled or it will shift into gear. Use a lot of care and be safe. When you reassemble, make sure to get plenty of OMC Triple Guard blue grease on the end of the drive shaft. It used to be packed with the water pump kit.

Best regards,
Frank_S

 

[Frank_Sebastian]

Sorry Tom,

I didn't read the post well. It might help to tap upward on the shaft, then try to remove it. The shaft will sieze in the crank if it isn't lubricated. That is a good reason to change the pump every few years. More if you run it a lot.

Frank_S

 

[Brett]

That's a new repair technique for my list of things to remember.
Makes a lot of sense. As the engine crank expands due to the
transfer of combustion heat, the gap between the splines widens.
Rotation and vibration loosen everything and down the driveshaft goes.

Thanks Frank.

That could work even if the lower unit has been removed.
Attach a hose to the tube that feeds from the water pump
to the block, make sure the tube is in the grommet that feeds the block,
turn the water on and you could run the engine at low rpms.

 

[TomFL]

Frank some great input as usual, that sounds like a great option. As always, buying a motor this old can sometimes be an adventure. Honestly the motor checks out perfect otherwise, and it's in such great shape I'd like to get her back running again.

Now here's what I've found out from a friend of mine in the repair biz, although I haven't had a chance to put it into action yet.

Place a large pillow/piece of foam on the garage floor. Turn the motor upside down and attach a chain/rope to the driveshaft. Hang the motor by the driveshaft, directly over the pillow and about 2-3" off the ground.

Coat the driveshaft liberally with PB blaster regularly, it should drop in a day or two just from the pb blaster working it's way into the siezed driveshaft and the weight of the motor.

If that doesn't do it after a couplea days, take an impact hammer and just buzz the end of the driveshaft to shake it loose.

As soon as I get some time to do it, I'll give it a shot and let you guys know how it goes.

It'd be a shame not to get the old girl up and running again.

-T

 

[Jefferso12]

I know I'm a little late on this, but I have an '81 7.5hp which is about the same set up (at least for the water pump) and I have the same problem. The driveshaft is seized in the motor.
Just curious if you ever got it out and how you did it
thanks

 

[noeettica]

Hopefully all the parties involved will come forward

Tom gave the motor away and the guy fixed it ...

Dave

 

[Gramps]

Hopefully all the parties involved will come forward 

Tom gave the motor away and the guy fixed it ...

                                                                     Dave

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1253427863/0

 

[noeettica]

Cool deal Scott glad you found it


Just yesterday someone suggested brake fluid + ATF

 

[Jefferso12]

awesome, thanks
i guess now ill try and get it all apart and make a slide hammer to pull it out. hope it works for me too

 

[DuckNut]

The best penetrating lube you will ever find or use is a mix of 50% acetone and 50% ATF. It is unbelievable.