5200....bond starboard to fiberglass???

Discussion in 'Boat Yard Basics' started by TomFL, Jul 24, 2010.

  1. TomFL

    TomFL Well-Known Member

    How strong and permanent will 5200 attach starboard to fiberglass?

    I'm thinking it won't work, anyone have any other ideas?

    -T
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    Mechanical fasteners only.
    No adhesive/resin will bond permanently from all I've read.

    FAQ

    http://www.kingstarboard.com/InfoCenter/FAQ.aspx
     

  3. TomFL

    TomFL Well-Known Member

    I'm thinking of maybe using plexi the more I read...

    Here's what I'm trying to do; a poor-man's LED light setup for snapper fishing at night, using these instead of the usual $600 LED setups: http://www.oznium.com/marine-led-spotlight

    I picked one up as a sample, and I'm gonna try dangling it in the water tonight to check how bright it is underwater. So far, in a dark room it's pretty impressive. I'm thinking of screwing 4-5 of these to a plexi strip and adhering the strip to the transom below the waterline.

    I don't want to drill any holes below the waterline..

    -T
     
  4. cutrunner

    cutrunner Cert. Yamaha technician

    5200 and starboard dont bond. i figured that out the hard way
     
  5. Gramps

    Gramps Living &amp; Dying in 3/4 Time

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  6. Bissell

    Bissell Microskiff.com... Priceless!

    how did the lights turn out tom? i thought about these lights too
     
  7. mark_gardner

    mark_gardner I Love microskiff.com!

    i glued a circular piece of starboard ,about the same size as a hockey puck  to the deck of my old bay boat with 5200 to act as a buffer between the trolling motor mount and the deck of the boat and had no problems with it. i did score the backside of the starboard pretty good to give the glue something to bite into. imo you CAN glue it with success depending on the particular application its being used for   [smiley=cigar.gif]
     
  8. TomFL

    TomFL Well-Known Member

    Haven't tackled the project yet, been working on other stuff. The lights are cool, very small (about 1" in diameter) and are danged bright for their size. I haven't put them under water yet to see how bright they are there, but will do so before going any farther.

    Another cool use for these, since they're so small, is you could put white ones on the rear of your truck and use them for more light while backing. Or even on your trailer.

    For $17 apiece and LED, you can't go wrong!

    -T
     
  9. Bissell

    Bissell Microskiff.com... Priceless!

    i think they would be cool underwater lights on the transom, i plan to get some for my gheenoe when i get it
     
  10. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    Tom I make underwater shrimp lights out of ¾" transparent PVC. I use a double string of "superbright LEDs in a 1 meter tube. You could scale this down for your use.

    Frank_S
     
  11. TomFL

    TomFL Well-Known Member

    Frank, I've seen your light setups and have been impressed!

    Where to get the transparent PVC though? Never heard of it.... same as plexi?

    -T
     
  12. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    Tom I get them from Ryan Herco in Orlando. They will cut it so it ships for less. I usually drive over about every 3 months and stop by there.

    http://www.ryanherco.com/

    Frank_S
     
  13. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    Their site isn't too easy to navigate so here is a direct link. I hope.

    http://webcat.rhfs.com/categorylist.aspx?catID=F175110170

    Frank_S
     
  14. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    One more thing I use Harvel rather than Thermo. It costs less and works very well. If you have a tax/business ID it will be less than what is posted.

    http://webcat.rhfs.com/familydetails.aspx?FamID=421

    Frank
     
  15. aflatsnut

    aflatsnut I Love microskiff.com!

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    Frank, where do you get the L E D lights

    Bob, Inlet49 on ISAA
     
  16. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    Hi Bob,

    Here is the site. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Flight_bars-flexible.html%23wfls

    I use the WFLBx96 in green. I use two 96 bulb strings (pointed in opposite directions) in a 39" section of 3/4" pipe. I use fishing line to pull them into place. I use common white pvc to fasten the cord connector and end cap and seal it up with GE 100% silicone caulk/sealer.

    Frank_S
     
  17. aflatsnut

    aflatsnut I Love microskiff.com!

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    Hi Frank. How do your lights compare to the Greenies the Oak Hill folks use?
     
  18. Frank_Sebastian

    Frank_Sebastian Well-Known Member

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    I was involved with the ISAA back when the first green fluorescent lights were built. I made two 40 watters at the first light building party. I soon changed over to 20 watt green fluorescent bulbs and powered them with an inverter rather than a 12 volt novelty rated ballast. I have made a bunch of those using only ul approved and nema service rated components. I don't know of any that failed to date. Several commercial fishermen even use my lights for swordfishing. I feel they are the best and I have used them side by side with LEDs.

    The LEDs are good though and very easy to transport. I started with them in 2003 and the ones I have now evolved from bulky ones wrapped around a spindle inside a 2" pvc to the 3/4" one meter lights with 192 bulbs. They are the Superbrights and spiral 720 degrees through the one meter pvc. The output is less then my fluro 20 watt green tubes, but you can still see a shrimp as far as you can reach with the LEDs. I have never seen an another LED light as bright as mine. Several local commercial giggers are using them as well as me.

    When in Sebastian let me know you are coming and I will show them too you.

    Best regards,
    Frank_S
     
  19. aflatsnut

    aflatsnut I Love microskiff.com!

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    Sure thing Frank, I fish down there 2-3 times a week, put in at city ramp. We met once at an ISAA cookout at Riverbreeze. Thanks for the input.

    Bob
     
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