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· I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will try and keep this updated throughout the build. Right now I’m in the parts collecting phase while I wait another week or two for the hull to show up.

Decided to get out of the skiff world for a few years to have a more family friendly boat and some more fishing opportunities offshore.

Goal is to save weight where possible in the hope that I can still pole it from time to time in calm waters and also fish it 10-20 miles off the beach.

Decided to build my own based on the fact the Panga marine hulls seem drastically heavier than their South American counterparts and kinda go against some of the things that make this design great.

Also really tired of working on skiffs where it seems repair and maintenance come way behind the looks so I will be trying to make a much more friendly boat to work on when needed.

Planned specs:
W-22 Mexican imemsa hull build
Center console
Raised front deck
Rear guide boxes with removable livewell /center seat
90 hp Suzuki 4 stroke
36v rhodan 84” with front and rear power pux

Core will likely be a mix between carbon core and coosa in areas where beneficial.

The general layup will likely be 1708 with a thin layer of csm applied on top of it to speed up fairing.

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· I Love microskiff.com!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anyone have any great ideas on a protective coating or wax I can apply to the trailer to keep it from oxidizing some over time. Mainly talking about the main beams and crossmember beans.
 

· Super Moderator
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I use clear paint in a rattle can (actually took about 3) to coat a new trailer. Seemed to help, but I didn't own it long enough for a long-term evaluation. A heavy coat of paste or liquid wax would probably do just as well.

Good luck with the build. I'll be following your progress.
 

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I would think some spray on car wax would help keep the trailer new looking for a while. I have one of their trailers and after about it year its looking a little dull, but not bad. I probably should clean it up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well supposedly its finally shipping from Mexico this Friday so hopefully get it home next week sometime. Then the fun begins.

Pretty boring stuff going on lately just collecting parts.

Today i decided to rip the bandaid off and order the lithium's for the trolling motor setup. I had it narrowed down to Ionic, Amped outdoors, and lithium pro's. I was leaning towards amped due to the extra 10 AH per battery, but while surfing prices today I noticed Lithium Pro's dropped their 12v 50AH almost $200 to a price of $278 a piece with free shipping so I went ahead and picked up 3 of them to create my 36V bank. Hopefully they work out and they will save about 60 lbs over my old group 27 lead acids. Still going to use a lead acid for my starting battery though.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You expected lighter? Amped outdoors is around 14 I think. So on the heavy side for lithium but exponentially lighter than lead acid and has a much smaller footprint which is what I wanted to minimize center console width.
 

· Lowcountry Degen
2021 Conchfish 17.8
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Anyone have any great ideas on a protective coating or wax I can apply to the trailer to keep it from oxidizing some over time. Mainly talking about the main beams and crossmember beans.
The anodization on the trailer should hold up really well on its own. I'd hit the following points with whatever corrosion blocker tickles your fancy:

Welds on the aluminum
Holes drilled through the aluminum
Cut ends of any beams
Hardware (all hardware, especially ground points)
Galvanized components
Anywhere that two components are touching (especially if they are dissimilar metals)

Won't keep it 100% perfect, but those should be the major offenders from a corrosion standpoint, unless I've forgotten some. The anodization on the aluminum beam surfaces usually seems to hold up well with normal washing unless you hit with an acid (or go through it, such as cutting/drilling/welding).
 

· Zephyr Cove is on FIRE!
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You expected lighter? Amped outdoors is around 14 I think. So on the heavy side for lithium but exponentially lighter than lead acid and has a much smaller footprint which is what I wanted to minimize center console width.
Yes I expected lighter for that AH but 19 pounds is definitely much lighter than the alternatives. That hull will eat that little bit no problem. Looking forward to this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I paid $700 each for ReLion 50Ah that weigh 15# in March 2018.

Thats a great deal on lithium batteries.

recommend the power mania onboard charger
Mike will that power mania charger charge lithium and lead acid/agm at the same time?

Im likely going with a traditional lead acid/agm for starting battery, then have lithiums for the troller. Since they will all be mounted in the center console I am planning on one 4 bank charger to control them all.

I had a dual pro 4 bank on my last skiff which was really nice but was crazy heavy and about $200-300 more than the NOCO gen5 pro 4 bank charger that seems to be popular right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
She is finally in transit, with a hopeful pick up this Friday.

One surprise from the teaser pics they sent were that it has a totally different stringer grid then I have seen in a 22' imemsa. It is way beefier and a little taller. The good part is this should make it much easier to put a floor in it and make a much cleaner end product with a little more gunnel space. It also could sway me to put a fish box in one of these compartments.

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