Ok, it’s not the idle/pilot screws unless it fell out. You need to check for an air/vacuum leak on that cyl. If it’s not sucking air then I’d go into the carbs again.
^^^ Check for lean condition. Because the carbs were recently cleaned, I would check the intake/reed block/carb mating surface for failed seal. Easiest way is to fire it up and hit those spots with an aerosol like starting ether or brake clean. Do NOT spray the intake throat of the carb. You are spraying the interfaces and mixture screws. If there is a change in RPMs, you've found the problem.Ok, it’s not the idle/pilot screws unless it fell out. You need to check for an air/vacuum leak on that cyl. If it’s not sucking air then I’d go into the carbs again.
I gotcha, thanks! Ill pick some up and give it a try. That's what i thought you were saying but wasn't completely sure and am a newcomer to troubleshooting outboard engine issues, i appreciate the advice! *will probably use carburetor cleaner, im just guessing if i make sure not to get any into intake and ther is a vacuum leak that stuff will probably cause RPMs to raise. Just my guessBy vacuum leak, I mean it is pulling air in somewhere other than through the venturi of the carb. As mentioned by a few, you can test this with some spray carb and choke cleaner, brake clean, etc.. by starting the motor amd spraying just a little on areas like... carb base flange, intake to block mating surface, etc... if it is pulling in air then it will pull in the spray and rpms will change. There are most likely some recirc lines on that motor that some would call vacuum lines. If one is off, it would cause the same issues and be a vacuum leak.
By vacuum leak, I mean it is pulling air in somewhere other than through the venturi of the carb. As mentioned by a few, you can test this with some spray carb and choke cleaner, brake clean, etc.. by starting the motor amd spraying just a little on areas like... carb base flange, intake to block mating surface, etc... if it is pulling in air then it will pull in the spray and rpms will change. There are most likely some recirc lines on that motor that some would call vacuum lines. If one is off, it would cause the same issues and be a vacuum leak.
@Headeache2stroke in your novelBy vacuum leak, I mean it is pulling air in somewhere other than through the venturi of the carb. As mentioned by a few, you can test this with some spray carb and choke cleaner, brake clean, etc.. by starting the motor amd spraying just a little on areas like... carb base flange, intake to block mating surface, etc... if it is pulling in air then it will pull in the spray and rpms will change. There are most likely some recirc lines on that motor that some would call vacuum lines. If one is off, it would cause the same issues and be a vacuum leak.
I believe he can, but from the looks of the plugs I think he needs to go back into the carbs myself. Looks like he has more than one hole runnin lean to me.@Headeache2stroke in your novelyou asked me a question about vacuum leaks, @Boatbrains covered everything I would have said and more about vacuum leaks in this ^ post.
@Boatbrains on that model motor can he pull a drain screw out of the bowl and pump on the primer bulb to see if he's getting fuel through the needle and seat properly?
I had a motor once that got a leak in the float, it would fill up with fuel and then sink closing the needle valve stopping fuel feed. Just something else to throw out there.
I purchased the boat/motor/trailer from my step-dad who was using it for crawfishing. He only used it for two seasons and it wasn't being used, got a great deal on it. When he purchased a setup it was just boat and trailer and this was in 2010. Most crawfishermen prefer the lighter 2-strokes to crawfish with for weight, easier or less complicated parts, cheaper, and simplicity. This outboard was in the crate leftover from 2009 but was a brand new, zero hour motor. There were only 2 left at the particular dealer he purchased it from. The sicker on the side says it was manufactured in i think 11/09 and the model is 25ESH so i can assure you that it is a 2009 and heard they didn't really produce a lot of them because demand was lower than the newer 4-stroke 25hp outboards. They simply weren't selling any hardly. I think the entire motor with all parts weighs 77lbs if im not mistaken. When it's running right its a little beast too, it pushes my 18' all aluminum skiff with two batteries, basic stuff in the dry storage, spare prop, 14 gallons of gas, and me at 31mph according to my GPS. It feels faster than that lol. I heard someone claim they made a few 2010's just like it but have not spoke to anyone who has one nor seen a 2010. Most of these are between 2006 and 2008 is when they made the majority, with Yamalube mix in fuel they actually call for a 100 to 1 mixture which surprises many as being such a lean mix. But the book calls for 50 to 1 during break in and Yamalube 100 to 1. If using any other outboard/2 cycle oil like "quicksilver" then 50 to 1 is best. EPA regulations saw these fade out quickly even as a fairly efficient burning 2-stroke.I just wanna know how you got a 2009 Yamaha 2 stroke.