1985 yamaha 70hp prop shaft removal. drive shaft out first?

Discussion in 'Outboard Maintenance' started by cordrayj1, Apr 4, 2011.

  1. cordrayj1

    cordrayj1 I Love microskiff.com!

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    I have a 1985 Yamaha 70 etlk. the prop shaft is off by .02" (i measured w dial indicator). i have already tried the pipe trick on the shaft to bend it back w no luck. i even tried putting an 8 ft extension for extra leverage while watching the dial indicator. i could get it to move, but it would never hold (i haven't used heat on shaft because i am under the impression that it is an alloy that will be severely weakened if heated and bent). instead of paying someone to tear it apart, i am acquiring the tools needed so I can learn something in the process. I have purchased the year, make, model specific service manual (genuine Yamaha), and have the "Seloc" manual as well.  My question is . . . Does the drive shaft (vertical shaft) have to be removed due to the pinion gear placement between the reverse and forward gears, or can i just pull off the threaded nut at bottom of foot, the keyed washer, then use the slide hammer and jaw expander to pull the bearing case? 

    also, i haven't received the Yamaha model specific manual. but i have the tools and they must be returned before the manual will be here. so i would like to find out if i can go ahead and get this step out of the way.

    THANKS IN ADVANCE!

    -Johnny
     
  2. Brett

    Brett > PRO STAFF <

    If I'm working on a gearcase, I've always pulled the lower unit first.
    Never did any work while it was on the outboard.
    Once the gearcase is in the bench clamp, impeller/housing is removed
    drive shaft gets pulled next, then any other work gets done.
     

  3. cordrayj1

    cordrayj1 I Love microskiff.com!

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    didnt end up pulling shaft. . . went to auto store and got a 6" hydraulic bottle jack and paired with the dial indicator was able to get back to "near true". not really according to the dial indicator or to my likings, but there are no more oil leaks and absolutely no vibrations. i was told you could use a long pipe on the prop shaft to bend by hand, but i tried that and bent the crap out the pipe. and it wasnt a wimpy pipe either. so anyways, the HYDRAULIC JACK worked like a charm and I had a pro mechanic tell me that works. and it did. thought i would fill yall in on the final outcome.