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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, my first post here. I’ve been lurking around the site for a few years and figured I’d document a project I picked up a couple weeks ago. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes and help me out if I run into problems. Excuse me if I’m a little long winded, I like details.

I got fed up with my weak 1436 riveted jon (which I thouroughly abused by taking it in rough water and speeds it should never go), and was offered this stumpknocker for free and decided to bring it back to life. It has been sitting upside down on the ground by our dock for years with no love. I believe it’s a 2002 based on the hull ID#. Seems to be in fair shape, strong transom, no apparent soft spots. I put my outboard on it and took off for a test spin prior to committing to the project. I really like the way it rides.

Didn’t take any pics before I flippped it, but will post as soon as I get it upright. First step is prepping to paint the bottom and sides.

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Had antifoulant on it, so I’m getting started sanding down down to base material (not sure if this green stuff is Gelcoat or some mold material), trying not to hit fiberglass underneath. I’ve sanded a few boats before and know how bad it sucks and how long it takes, so to speed it up I put the angle grinder to work with 36 grit on a backing pad to get bulk of the paint off before hitting it with 80 grit on a random orbital sander to get it clean and smooth(ish). You can see where I dug into the transom a little with the grinder, gotta be careful with that thing. Filled in the old motor mount holes with epoxy putty. Cold front is about to hit, so painting will have to wait a few days. Gives me plenty of time to finish prepping the hull.

For coatings: I’m going with totalboat epoxy barrier coat first, then totalboat krypton antifoulant on bottom, and Rustoleum topside (battleship grey) on sides. Boat will be kept in brackish water here south MS.

For interior paint I haven’t figured out what color I want to use, if I want to put down some non skid, or if I even feel like messing with any of it it at all. It’s got the white with splatter paint on it now and I don’t like it at all. But if I’m going to paint over it, Id like to do it before I start adding things and putting back together the hardware (seats, cleats, hinges, etc.). I’ve got a couple patches to repaint where I took off old cleats and other little items anyway.

On my test run I noticed a couple things about the motor/boat combo. Motor is a 2017 suzuki 20hp 4 stroke short shaft, and was mounted directly to the transom. Seemed like anti cav plate was a tad too low, throwing a little more spray than necessary. Also noticed the tiller handle was wanting to go into my torso as I made a left hand turn. Would def be a problem once I add a seat. Adding a mini jacker to offset both of these issues. I’ve also got the wrong prop on there for this heavy of a boat. No tach, but I know the motor isn’t getting to optimal rpm range at wot. Switched my stock 9.25x10p for a 9.25x11p to run on the tinny, but need to switch back to the 10p for this boat. Ran about 24-25 mph and touched 26 once on the test run, Very light load, just me and no gear in the boat. Hope to stay above 25mph consitently with the mini jacker and new prop on there and carrying addl weight from things that will stay in the boat all the time.

I hoped $1000 would be plenty to get this boat where it needs to be, but Was hoping to keep it around $500. Not looking like I’m gonna make that budget. I still need quite a few things.

Below is what I’ve got invested so far:
Sandpaper/misc hardware store trips - $90 (adds up quick)
Barrier coat and antifoulant -$150
Rustoleum topside and paint rollers -$30
Mini jacker - $120
Stainless cleat and stern tie downs -$30
Stumpknocker vinyl decals -$20

Total -$440 so far and haven’t even got started on the inside of the boat.

I’m all ears as to what you guys suggest on the interior topside of the boat. Colors, additions, etc. I talked to a guy at a local fab shop about one of those aluminum grab bars everyone on here has so I could drive standing up, but didn’t love the price ($200).

More updates and pics to come as it progresses. Hope to get it pretty close to complete by the Christmas holidays.
 

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If you have a 4" angle grinder try to find you one of the polycarbide abrasive wheels. They come in different abrasives and will save many hours of work and a lot of $$$ on sand paper. They will make it easier to get in those rounded areas. FYI when I put a new one on I try it out on my concrete floor to soften it up some. This also lets me know how course it is so as not dig in to fast.
 

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take a scrap piece of metal and lightly dust it on the pad at normal speed that will ungum it up. If the gumming is from old bottom paint you can rinse it out with some acetone. Don't soak it just rinse and then try the metal trick.
I rebuild and rework the old ones usually 2 a year just for fun. I never put wood where I can use aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Went to finish sanding today and ran into an issue. Water somewhere in the hull. I was scared of this when I picked it up, and wondered why it was so heavy when we tried to flip it. As I turned loose the first bolt on the bow u bolt (which wasn’t really sealed when it was installed), I saw water. Bled about a quart or two.
Bumper Vehicle door Automotive exterior Fender Vehicle
Wall Ceiling Soil Beige Architecture

The water on the outside is from rain/water hose. Water in the inside is from the holes in the bow. It’s sitting bow down on the saw horses, so any water should be up forward.

Then I noticed water dripping from a small stress crack in the front bench seat. Drilled a couple holes on top side along with some vent holes near the deck on the front side and water starts to flow.. thing was full, 5+ gallons came out. Back bench was ok, only a drop or two came out.

Water got in from rainwater sitting in boat for about a month before I picked it up. Both through the unsealed bow u bolt holes, and open holes on the bench where a seat used to be. Water was over front bench too. When I picked it up the boat was full of water, with trailer tongue on ground, and all water sitting in front end. It was like this for a month before I got it. The prior few years of its life have been spent upside down.

I had to drill a couple core samples to see how saturated the deck is, and to my surprise it was dry everywhere. I’ll be opening up the benches from the top to insert pedestal seat bases so I’ll clean them out better at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got some work done on days that the weather cooperated, and gave Boat a good while to dry out. Finished sanding, applied 3 coats of barrier (went up to top rail on 1st coat as primer for topside paint, rest was all below waterline), good coat of antifoulant, and 4 coats topside paint on sides. Turned out pretty good.
Surfboard Surfing Equipment Skiff Dinghy Boats and boating--Equipment and supplies
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Roof Family car Automotive exterior Vehicle Shade


Next step is to flip it, strip it down, patch the holes I drilled, paint the top a sand color, replace and add new stainless hardware, install seats, and add jack plate and motor.

Up to $800+ after buying seats, more paint, and a couple trips to the hardware store.

Got a couple ideas on electronics, but I’ll get to that later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Been cold af this week so no paint, but was able to get everything stripped, all my holes drilled and hardware temp fit, and the top sanded and ready for paint.

Mini Jacker and a couple of u bolts on the transom. Bought them way too sturdy, 1/2” bolts. All I need them to do is give me an anchor point for mooring. Not trying to wake board lol
Architecture Metal
Property Wall Soil Backyard Tree


Installed some pedestal seat bases as well. Used these heavy duty toggle bolts as a backing and 5200ed the crap out of all the holes. Rattle canned a similar color underneath the bases.
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Metalworking hand tool Scale model
Floor Table Games Bumper Auto part


Popped all the rivets off the hatch hinges. Replacing with stainless bolts and locknuts. Rivets were all loose. May be overdoing it with the hardware here, but whatever.
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Also added a new bow cleat.
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Almost done. Took everything apart, sanded and washed it. Ready for paint once it heats up a tad, hopefully this weekend. More pics to come when it’s done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well it warmed up a tad and I was able to get some painting done. Put the first coat on with the rustoleum topside in sand/beige. Turned out like an off white color, but I was going for more of a tan. So I took a trip to my local Sherwin Williams to get some tinting to darken up the rest of my paint, and I was unsuccessful in tinting it the color I wanted. The girl there mentioned they had their own marine paint called Seaguard so I went back and bought a gallon of it and let them tint it the right color. Turned out nice, a little glossier than I wanted tho.
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Water transportation Skiff Boat Vehicle Bass boat
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Going to put one more coat on the deck with rustoleum anti skid additive, get all my outfitting done, change props and add outboard, and get this thing in the water. Hope to have it done (done for now at least) and in the water by the end of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
She’s in the water.. but the last couple of updates first.

Nonskid turned out ok, but if I had to do it over, I’d go with a different product. It was difficult to get it evenly distributed and it has the texture of sandpaper. Regardless, it works and it doesn’t look terrible.
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Got the mini-jacker and motor mounted. I miscalculated it and still set it about an inch too low (anti cav plate is just even with the hull now), but I’ll raise it another day. I drilled the holes where it gives me an inch of play either way. It works just fine for now.
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Finished up by replacing all the rivets in the hatch hinges with stainless bolts. Thought about replacing the hinges but the hole patterns weren’t standard and the old ones still worked. I bought some of that rubber trim that goes around car doors to run the bottom edge, but bought it too thin. The correct size is on the way now.
Metal


Some final product shots.
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Water transportation Vehicle Boat Boating Skiff


Got a few ideas about more things I’d like to do - electronics, lights, grab bar etc. I’ll post updates when I make a move on any of them.
 

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Sweet skiff man. Not trying to hijack your thread but I bought a 2001 14’ Stumpknocker and had it rebuilt a while back. Just sold it last year, such an awesome boat. 50hp evinrude on it and man did she go fast. Here’s a few pics so you can check it out. These boats are popular in Florida and was rare to find one here in Texas.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
More updates to come soon. I went on amazon and got a little crazy. Spent another $600. Got the fish master grab bar, tiller extension, New transducer and ram mount for my lowrance elite5, running lights, a marine stereo with Bluetooth, deck lights, and a 6 switch panel to tie it all in. Brainstorming now on where/how to mount everything, and how to run my wires from bow to stern without it being too hard on the eyes.

I was able to spend some time on the water Saturday and noticed a few things. The motor is mounted too low, as I stated before. While on plane my anti cav plate is still underwater (barely) and is throwing a bit of spray. Also, my 10p prop allows me to hit rev limiter at full throttle and it seems to be ventilating when trying to get up on plane. Especially in a mild chop, moreso when in a following sea. That has me worried about raising the motor. One more thing - when by myself, it tends to porpoise a bit, but not terrible. Motor is set at almost perfect perpendicular trim in reference to the keel. With a passenger up front, porposing is no issue. I’m not happy with how quickly it is getting on plane either.

Going to make these adjustments and see how it goes: trim down 1 hole, which will toe in the motor a bit. Replace 10p with 11p prop. Raise jack plate 1”. And keep the idea of a hydrofoil in the back of my mind.
 
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