14’ Stumpnocker2 Project

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by CRB223, Dec 5, 2017.

  1. CRB223

    CRB223 Member

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    Hello all, my first post here. I’ve been lurking around the site for a few years and figured I’d document a project I picked up a couple weeks ago. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes and help me out if I run into problems. Excuse me if I’m a little long winded, I like details.

    I got fed up with my weak 1436 riveted jon (which I thouroughly abused by taking it in rough water and speeds it should never go), and was offered this stumpknocker for free and decided to bring it back to life. It has been sitting upside down on the ground by our dock for years with no love. I believe it’s a 2002 based on the hull ID#. Seems to be in fair shape, strong transom, no apparent soft spots. I put my outboard on it and took off for a test spin prior to committing to the project. I really like the way it rides.

    Didn’t take any pics before I flippped it, but will post as soon as I get it upright. First step is prepping to paint the bottom and sides.

    BA8C3FA4-FF2A-45E6-AC3E-A1E363E0CAC6.jpeg CF504F2B-3DEE-4549-83CF-D63822DAF24F.jpeg B3BA171B-DD16-4FA0-8A05-F770C36716D7.jpeg
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    Had antifoulant on it, so I’m getting started sanding down down to base material (not sure if this green stuff is Gelcoat or some mold material), trying not to hit fiberglass underneath. I’ve sanded a few boats before and know how bad it sucks and how long it takes, so to speed it up I put the angle grinder to work with 36 grit on a backing pad to get bulk of the paint off before hitting it with 80 grit on a random orbital sander to get it clean and smooth(ish). You can see where I dug into the transom a little with the grinder, gotta be careful with that thing. Filled in the old motor mount holes with epoxy putty. Cold front is about to hit, so painting will have to wait a few days. Gives me plenty of time to finish prepping the hull.

    For coatings: I’m going with totalboat epoxy barrier coat first, then totalboat krypton antifoulant on bottom, and Rustoleum topside (battleship grey) on sides. Boat will be kept in brackish water here south MS.

    For interior paint I haven’t figured out what color I want to use, if I want to put down some non skid, or if I even feel like messing with any of it it at all. It’s got the white with splatter paint on it now and I don’t like it at all. But if I’m going to paint over it, Id like to do it before I start adding things and putting back together the hardware (seats, cleats, hinges, etc.). I’ve got a couple patches to repaint where I took off old cleats and other little items anyway.

    On my test run I noticed a couple things about the motor/boat combo. Motor is a 2017 suzuki 20hp 4 stroke short shaft, and was mounted directly to the transom. Seemed like anti cav plate was a tad too low, throwing a little more spray than necessary. Also noticed the tiller handle was wanting to go into my torso as I made a left hand turn. Would def be a problem once I add a seat. Adding a mini jacker to offset both of these issues. I’ve also got the wrong prop on there for this heavy of a boat. No tach, but I know the motor isn’t getting to optimal rpm range at wot. Switched my stock 9.25x10p for a 9.25x11p to run on the tinny, but need to switch back to the 10p for this boat. Ran about 24-25 mph and touched 26 once on the test run, Very light load, just me and no gear in the boat. Hope to stay above 25mph consitently with the mini jacker and new prop on there and carrying addl weight from things that will stay in the boat all the time.

    I hoped $1000 would be plenty to get this boat where it needs to be, but Was hoping to keep it around $500. Not looking like I’m gonna make that budget. I still need quite a few things.

    Below is what I’ve got invested so far:
    Sandpaper/misc hardware store trips - $90 (adds up quick)
    Barrier coat and antifoulant -$150
    Rustoleum topside and paint rollers -$30
    Mini jacker - $120
    Stainless cleat and stern tie downs -$30
    Stumpknocker vinyl decals -$20

    Total -$440 so far and haven’t even got started on the inside of the boat.

    I’m all ears as to what you guys suggest on the interior topside of the boat. Colors, additions, etc. I talked to a guy at a local fab shop about one of those aluminum grab bars everyone on here has so I could drive standing up, but didn’t love the price ($200).

    More updates and pics to come as it progresses. Hope to get it pretty close to complete by the Christmas holidays.
     
    Capt Rhan, Fritz and Indoman like this.
  2. Fritz

    Fritz Well-Known Member

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    Nice post. I really like that you have detailed the cost so far, that's one thing that we prefer not to talk about, or so it seems. Keep the updates coming!
     

  3. Capt Rhan

    Capt Rhan Active Member

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    If you have a 4" angle grinder try to find you one of the polycarbide abrasive wheels. They come in different abrasives and will save many hours of work and a lot of $$$ on sand paper. They will make it easier to get in those rounded areas. FYI when I put a new one on I try it out on my concrete floor to soften it up some. This also lets me know how course it is so as not dig in to fast.
     
    yobata likes this.
  4. CRB223

    CRB223 Member

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    Yea I got one and it gummed up with the old paint pretty quickly. Still plan to use it on the remaining edges here and there.
     
  5. Capt Rhan

    Capt Rhan Active Member

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  6. Capt Rhan

    Capt Rhan Active Member

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    take a scrap piece of metal and lightly dust it on the pad at normal speed that will ungum it up. If the gumming is from old bottom paint you can rinse it out with some acetone. Don't soak it just rinse and then try the metal trick.
    I rebuild and rework the old ones usually 2 a year just for fun. I never put wood where I can use aluminum.
     
    Fritz likes this.
  7. CRB223

    CRB223 Member

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    Went to finish sanding today and ran into an issue. Water somewhere in the hull. I was scared of this when I picked it up, and wondered why it was so heavy when we tried to flip it. As I turned loose the first bolt on the bow u bolt (which wasn’t really sealed when it was installed), I saw water. Bled about a quart or two. EAE3F5A6-558F-4C4B-8348-3C6C65EF6C10.jpeg 94183284-2367-4A8E-8FBC-386519D71965.jpeg
    The water on the outside is from rain/water hose. Water in the inside is from the holes in the bow. It’s sitting bow down on the saw horses, so any water should be up forward.

    Then I noticed water dripping from a small stress crack in the front bench seat. Drilled a couple holes on top side along with some vent holes near the deck on the front side and water starts to flow.. thing was full, 5+ gallons came out. Back bench was ok, only a drop or two came out.

    Water got in from rainwater sitting in boat for about a month before I picked it up. Both through the unsealed bow u bolt holes, and open holes on the bench where a seat used to be. Water was over front bench too. When I picked it up the boat was full of water, with trailer tongue on ground, and all water sitting in front end. It was like this for a month before I got it. The prior few years of its life have been spent upside down.

    I had to drill a couple core samples to see how saturated the deck is, and to my surprise it was dry everywhere. I’ll be opening up the benches from the top to insert pedestal seat bases so I’ll clean them out better at that time.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 10, 2017