Dedicated To The Smallest Of Skiffs banner

DIY Boat Deck

6K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  WhiteDog70810 
#1 ·
Ive been trying to figure out how to make a flat deck for my 13 foot Boston whaler. I know there are molds out there but they can cost quite a lot and if I would prefer to not fiberglass over wood that is waterproofed since it would add more weight to my already small boat and there is still the risk of wood rot. Anyone have any ideas?
 
#7 ·
I've read on a few sites that a boat has to be over a certain length for you to really save enough weight for the cost to be worth it with composites vs plywood, as you have to put x much more resin for strength. On the other hand you have something that lasts long if done right. Just food for thought
 
#9 · (Edited)
Im working on a jonboat deck as we speak. Gonna attempt to remember to weigh and post the 1/2 ply jig i used and the glassed 1/2 coosa deck. Can say that dry, the composite weighs significantly less, and apparently in some applications the coosa does not even need to be glassed because it DOES NOT ROT
 
#11 ·
A 13 Whaler is a 320-410# hull with 1600# capacity and it drafts 6" empty (owners report up to 9" real world draft). Whalers are the most weight insensitive hulls I've ever messed with. This is not a hull where you need to freak out about every oz. of weight. Short of building a deck out of brick and mortar, you can't mess it up.

12 mm. meranti (the grain is very similar to mahogany and could be stained to match the thwarts) weighs ~1.5-2.1 per square foot. A layer of 6 oz. glass top and bottom adds 0.17# per square foot, maybe a bit more for your first few laminations. A 22"x53.75" front deck is ~8.2 square feet. A ply/epoxy deck would weigh ~13.7-18.6#. I guess-stimate you could get a deck of these dimensions down to ~10# using all-composite construction. How much money are you willing to spend to save ~4-9# weight difference? I'd rather spend the difference on fuel to go fishing.

All that being said, the boat came with mahogany thwarts. Why mess with a theme? Buy two replacement thwarts (http://www.specialtymarine.com/BOST...WART-BENCH-SEAT-FITS-CLASSIC-13-15-p1037.html). It may seem pricey, but once you compare it to buying a full sheet of ply or composite and the epoxy for the job at retail prices and taking a few weekends of your time to learn the techniques and put it all together, $300 is a deal. Cut one to match those front curves near the deck. Screw a couple of oak cross braces underneath to stiffen it up and attach the deck to the hull. Refinish the old thwarts to match. It isn't high tech, but it goes with the hull, won't hurt your resale, takes 1/4 of your time AND THERE IS NO FAIRING NECESSARY! A mahogany deck will weigh ~23#. Once again, a 13# weight difference vs. composite is not worth fighting over in a 13 Whaler.

Nate
 
#13 ·
Agreed. I'm not saying composites are bad at all, especially when constructing an entire skiff. But when you are talking about a small deck, it doesn't make much sense to me to spend double or triple the dollars and the added labor for 5 lbs. I would also have to ship foam or coosa to ATL which is ridiculous in itself haha Ive looked into it.
 
#15 ·
Theres guys out there that staple astroturf on HDX plywood and call it a day, It just comes down to what you want out of you're stuff. i don't think a composite deck is necessary on a Boston whaler, but im trying to save weight on a tin boat that gets slid trough air boat trails, pushed over everglades marsh, and dragged trough mangroves. Still no way id use plywood on either of my boats.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top